Download: Click Here

LED Cupholder Ring Light Components Diagram

Auxiliary Upfitter Switch Wiring Diagram

You must utilize a 4-pin relay for each of the auxillary switches you want to use. Each brand/model of relay may have different colored wires but this diagram is based on a common wire scheme on many relays. 

10-Way Powered Seat Hardwire Memory Seat Bypass Diagram

I have found multiple years and models of Ford vehicles utilize the same wiring for their memory seats. I have found this on 12th gen (09-14) F-150 as well as 2011-2019 Ford Explorers. Wire colors may vary year by year. Many other vehicles may include the same wiring harnesses.

If trying to install 10-way powered seats with memory into a vehicle that is not normally equipped with it, you will find the seats do not work. This is because the drivers control module (DCM) found underneath the drivers side seat interrupts the circuit and needs to by bypassed. The 3rd plug going into the DCM has most of the wires needed to bypass the system by using jumper wires. Use this diagram to determine which wires to jump across. 

Download Links

2013 Interceptor Upfitter Guide

2014 Interceptor Upfitter Guide

2015 Interceptor Upfitter Guide

2016 Interceptor Upfitter Guide

2017 Interceptor Upfitter Guide

2018 Interceptor Upfitter Guide

2020 Interceptor Upfitter Guide

2021 Interceptor Upfitter Guide

2022 Interceptor Upfitter Guide

2024 Interceptor Upfitter Guide

These instructions illustrate mounting for the single-switch mount, but apply for all mounts

Notes: 

This is a 3D printed part and requires a moderate level of care when installing. Although it is very durable, it is a thermoplastic and can melt if drilled or sanded with a high-powered sander. See the instructions at the end of this manual for refinishing information. It will flex as needed but will break if you try to bend it. 

For installation, you will need a small-bit Philips screwdriver. Optionally you might need to use some rubbing alcohol, scotchbrite/sandpaper and Silicone.

-Use a small-bit Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding on the Turn signal/Neutral/High-beam indicator housing. Set screws aside. 

-Alternatively, accidently drop them on the ground and spend 15 minutes looking for them on hands and knees.

-Remove housing cover, and leave rubber and light bulb assembly attached to bike.
-Take parts inside to continue project on kitchen table since your garage workbench has too much shit on it to do anything. Also its cold out here.

-Line up your new switch panel with your housing to ensure holes are relatively close to lining up. This should be a pretty tight fit. Take note of the area where the round switch cylinder(s) will be contacting the housing for the next step.

-Note that the single-switch panel mounts to the underside of the housing (as shown in photo) whereas the two and three-switch panels mount on the top side.

-OPTIONAL: Use Scotch-Brite pad or sandpaper to scuff the contact area to promote better adhesion of the 3M double sided tape. Clean scuffed area with rubbing alcohol, or drinking alcohol.

-Remove red film from 3M double-sided tape. Use the screws to help align the mounting holes from the panel and housing together in the correct position. Use your fingers to firmly press the two parts together and let the tape bond.

-Install provided washers to each screw.

-Partially install screws so that they are barely sticking out from bottom side of housing. This will allow you to easily align switch during installation while still allowing you to easily tighten screws the rest of the way. Or you can disregard that last bit and do it however you want.

-Slide rubber insert with light bulbs into housing first. Then align the partially installed screws with mounting holes.

-Snugly tighten the screws, but do not over-tighten. This is plastic, not titanium. 

-Install your wired switches. If you bought the switches with this kit, refer to the fancy Google images/MS-Paint diagram included below.

-Optionally you may want to use Silicone to secure the switch(s). This is particularly applicable if using the single-switch panel due to the tight bend the wires have to make. It may be easier to silicone the switch and allowing to cure prior to installation of the housing. 

-Wipe any residual silicone off the edges (if applicable).

-Enjoy your mounting switch, and leave a great product review on eBay, or complain about the shoddy workmanship to me in private.

If you are happy with this product, I would greatly appreciate a review on any TW200 forum or Facebook Page. Thanks!

Refinishing Tips:

If you want to paint this part here is the recommended procedure:

-Lightly hand-sand part with 220-400 grit sandpaper

-Clean with soap water or alcohol

-Lightly spray with plastic adhesive promoter

-Spray with a high-build sandable primer

-Hand sand primer with 400-grit sandpaper until smooth

-Clean and paint any color

Switch Wiring Diagram

TW200 Light Bar Installation Guide

Click here for the installation and review video by TDubsKid on YouTube

Tools Needed

-Philips Screw Driver

-10mm socket/wrench

-12mm socket/wrench

-13mm socket/wrench

-Electrical crimpers (can be substituted with pliers)

1. Remove the LOWER 12mm fork bolt on each side. (see photo below
   
   
2. Install the light bar assembly with the “3Dub200” logo facing upwards. The new bolts will be 13mm. Snug bolts down tightly. NOTE: New bolts may bind up on the light bar bracket, if this happens slightly loosen the spacer nut to allow the bolt to spin freely. Be sure to fully tighten both the spacer nut and the new fork bolt. 
3. Remove the 1 Philips screw from the headlight cowl. Remove the cowl.
4. Remove the two side 10mm headlight bolts and the lower 10mm bolt. Remove the headlight and get access to the 3-wire plug which is plugged into the back of the headlight. See image below (Image is of a 2018 TW200, be aware that earlier years may have different wire coloring)
   
   

   Highbeam: Yellow Wire

   Negative: Black Wire
   
   

5. If you want to have an independent auxiliary switch for controlling the light bar, then run a wire from the battery (or running light positive wire) to the new switch, then from the switch to the positive light bar wire, then wire the negative light bar wire to the frame or to the negative battery terminal. For a great video tutorial check out this how-to video by TDubsKid on Youtube
   
   If you want to use the existing high-beam switch to turn on your light bar at the same time as your brights (easiest method), proceed below.

6. Use the provided T-taps (dark blue plastic crimp) to crimp onto the negative and high-beam positive wire. Using a pair of pliers works best for closing the crimpers. Be sure the crimps are fully latched around the wires. (see photo below)
   
   
   
   
7. Crimp the two provided spade connectors to both the black (-), and red (+) wires on the LED light bar. Slide the spade connectors into the T-taps. NOTE: LED’s are uni-polar so if you mix up the positive and negative wires the light will not work. NOTE 2: Sometimes the spades want to slide to the side instead of sliding into the terminal slot, giving the appearance of being correctly plugged in even when they are not. 
   
   
   
   
8. Plug the headlight back in and reinstall all bolts and cowl. Turn on the key and check the light bar for proper function.
9. Manually twist the lightbar to choose the desired height adjustment. Higher adjustment decreases the effectiveness of the lightbar. It is best to adjust the light bar at night and while  away from other light sources. The light bar allen bolts should be tight, but loose enough that you can manually adjust the angle with your hand. 

Thank you for your purchase! If you are satisfied with your new light I would greatly appreciate a positive review on eBay/Etsy. It would also be greatly appreciated if you post about it on any forum/Facebook group you may be a part of. If you have any issues with the product, please send me a message and I will do my best to resolve the issue.

Update: Due to the non-uniform dimensions of different brands of aftermarket 4x6 Headlights, some customers reported having a little extra wiggle room in their brackets after the headlight was installed. I now include a 1' strip of foam tape that can be cut to fit as spacers for the affected headlights. 

For Installation of the Headlight Adaptor Bracket

Tools Needed

-Philips Screw Driver

-Flat head or trim tool

-8mm socket/wrench

-Metric Allen Wrenches

1. Remove the Seat

2. Loosen or remove the plastic cladding on the upper right side of the fuel tank. It is held in with a Philips screw and a plastic push rivet from the front. The rest of the cladding is held in by clips. Be careful not to break them.

3. Remove Headlight by removing the 4 Allen bolts (2 on each side). Unplug harness plugs and move the headlight to a table or workspace. Remove the 8mm hex headlight adjustment bolt located on the underside of the headlight assembly. It is no longer needed as it is being replaced with a longer Philips head screw. When removing the adjustment screw take note of the small square nut that it fastens into. It is located inside the headlight assembly. BE CAREFUL TO KEEP TRACK OF THIS NUT, IT CAN FALL OUT.

4. Remove the 3D printed mounting bracket from the LED Lightbar assembly. Remove the red film from the double-sided tape.

5. Align the mounting bracket with the tape facing the underside of the headlight housing, and the “FRONT” lettering facing forward. Before mounting see the below photo to verify correct placement. It is properly aligned when the front and left side are flush with the headlight housing edges and the oval shaped slots on both the housing plastic and the mount are perfectly aligned. Try test fitting before removing film to verify fitment. You may need to clean the underside of the headlight housing for best adhesion.

6. Locate the new replacement Philips screw in the plastic bag. Be sure to prepare the screw by making sure the hardware is in the following orientation as shown in the photo below. It is recommended to apply some blue (removable) thread locker to the threads to ensure it does not vibrate loose. Failure to use thread-locker could result in losing the screw, and damaging the lightbar and/or your bike.

7. Look at the headlight assembly from the underside. Slide the LED light bar metal mounting bracket into the 3D printed bracket all the way back until the circular screw hole is aligned with the square headlight adjustment nut inside the headlight assembly. Once aligned, insert the new replacement screw through the metal bracket and fasten to the square nut.

When referencing the image, slide the bracket/lightbar assembly into the 3D printed bracket until the points marked by red dots are aligned.

Notice that the factory headlight adjustment process is retained even with the LED light bar installed. To Adjust the headlight: Loosen the phillips screw and adjust by moving the headlight assembly by hand. The Screw will slide through the mount slot. Tighten screw when properly aligned. This is much easier to do when the headlight is mounted back on the bike. It may be a bit more resistant to move with the new bracket installed. The two small allen bolts in the metal LED Light Bar bracket adjust the tilt and side-to-side positioning of the light.

8. Return to the bike with the headlight assembly. Take the wiring harness (If purchased) and attach the hook terminal (red wire) to the positive terminal of the battery. Run the wiring loom under the loosened plastic cladding to the headlight area. Follow the routing direction of the other wires as shown in the photo below.

9. Attach the switch to the handlebar. The best location seems to be on the left side within reach of your left thumb.

10. Remove the silver 8mm hex bolt, attach the negative (Black Wire) eyelet terminal and replace the hex bolt. The hex bolt is located behind where the headlight assembly goes and is to the left of the horn.

11.Verify all cables are routed safely and not in danger of being pinched or strained when turning the handlebars. Use zip ties to secure the wiring to the frame. Bundle any loose wiring out of the way. Be sure no wiring is touching moving parts or engine parts that get hot. Under the seat be sure that the wiring will not be in the way when re-installing the seat. 

12. Reinstall the headlight assembly and test the LED light bar for proper function. Reinstall plastic cladding and seat.

13. In a flat, dark environment check the headlight and lightbar for the proper light pattern and adjust as needed.

You have successfully mounted your new Low-Profile LED Light Bar! As a small business owner I would greatly appreciate a positive review on Etsy/eBay/3Dub200.com, as well as publicity on whatever social media and/or forum communities you may be a part of. Thank you for your purchase!

NOTES:

• Light Bar should not be used on high-trafficked roads. Always turn off the light bar when facing oncoming traffic.
• Install and use lightbar at your own risk. Modifying your bike may result in voiding the factory warranty. 
• Installing this headlight removes about 1 inch of front suspension travel clearance. Modify your driving tendencies to avoid excessive suspension travel (slow over speed bumps, avoid potholes and bumpy roads, refrain from performing stunts). Failure to drive cautiously may result in damaged property.

Parts List for DIY kit and replacement parts:

-22mm Handlebar Light Switch and Mount

-Inline Fuse Holder

-Eyelet Crimp Connector

-Shrink tube connectors

-Headlight Adjustment Screw: M4x25mm

Wiring Diagram:

Tools Needed

-Philips Screw Driver

-10mm socket/wrench

-12mm socket/wrench

-13mm socket/wrench

-Electrical crimpers (can be substituted with pliers)

1. Remove the 3 Philips screws from the headlight cowl. Rotate the cowl to the side and out of the way.

2. Remove the 2, 12mm headlight bolts and the lower 10mm bolt. Remove the headlight and get access to the 3-wire plug which is plugged into the back of the headlight. See image below (Image is of a 2005 KLR250, be aware that earlier years may have different wire coloring.)

3. If you want to have an independent auxiliary switch for controlling the light bar, then run a wire from the battery (or running light positive wire) to a the new switch, then from the switch to the positive light bar wire, then wire the negative light bar wire to the frame or to the negative battery terminal. 

If you want to use the existing high-beam switch to turn on your light bar at the same time as your brights (easiest method), proceed below.

4. Use the provided T-taps (dark blue plastic crimp) to crimp onto the negative and high-beam positive wire. Using a pair of pliers works best for closing the crimpers. Be sure the crimps are fully latched around the wires. (see photo below)

5. Route the light bar wire on the right side (left if facing front of bike). It is recommended to have the light bar wires follow the same routing as the speedometer cable. Crimp the two provided spade connectors to both the black (-), and red (+) wires on the LED light bar. Slide the spade connectors into the T-taps. NOTE: LED’s are uni-polar so if you mix up the positive and negative wires the light will not work. Sometimes the spade terminals want to slide to the side of the T-tap instead of into the terminal slot which may appear to be plugged in, but will not power the light.

6. Plug the headlight back in and reinstall all bolts and cowl. Turn on the key and check the light bar for proper function.

7. Remove the LOWER 12mm fork bolt on each side. (see photo below)

8. Install the light bar assembly with the “3Dub200” logo facing upwards. The new bolts will be 13mm. Snug bolts down tightly. NOTE: New bolts may bind up on the light bar bracket, if this happens slightly loosen the spacer nut to allow the bolt to spin freely. Be sure to fully tighten both the spacer nut and the new fork bolt. 

9. Manually turn the lightbar to choose the desired height adjustment. High adjustment settings decrease the effectiveness of the lightbar. It is best to adjust the light bar at night away from other light sources. The light bar Allen bolts should be tight, but loose enough that you can manually adjust the angle with your hand. 

Thank you for your purchase! If you are satisfied with your new light I would greatly appreciate a positive review on eBay/Etsy/3Dub200.com. It would also be greatly appreciated if you post about it on any forum/Facebook group you may be a part of. If you have any issues with the product, please send me a message and I will do my best to resolve the issue.